Separar los nombres con comas.
Tema en 'VIDEOS FPV -UAV' iniciado por Kiof, 4 Sep 2009.
Mirad estos videos de VRflyer
Jeje, ve cojiendo ideas para la cabina del B-4. En el segundo vídeo el efecto que consigue con el movimiento de la palanca de mando le dá un realismo fantástico.
Si si es una pasada la mano en la palanca de dirección y en el acelerador... se le ve hasta el hombro. Yo creo que es un Geyperman esas manos me suenan mucho.
ya me queda menos para conseguir algo parecido
:icon_eek: Madre mia! Que realismo!
...pos no me queda a mi na...
Muy bueno el tio este, ya lo tengo fichado, jeje.
Suerte Kiof con el proyecto, espero ver fotos y videos pronto.
Me gustaría saber como hace esas cabinas de acetato para que se vea tan bien! Incluso siendo curvado!
Eso mejoraría mucho la aerodinámica en nuestros aviones y podríamos volar más rato.
Yo me encontré ese problema con el Hot Point y el ASW28.
Juan gomez en su hilo creo que explicaba como lo hacía.
EL vuela sus aviones con cabina cerrada.
LARGE SCALE AEROPLANE You broke a canopy on your scale aeroplane, and no replacement is available?
You are building a large aeroplane and search for a cheap and simple way to make the canopy?
You have no vacuumforming equippment?
Here is how I made my large canopies-the simple way!
I use a styrofoam block, and carve a canopy shape. At its edges, I made that shape (lets call it »positive mold«) larger for about 2,5 cm (1inch) so we could later trim the finished canopy to proper size.
Shaping of the positive mold starts with transfering outer contour to sides of the styrofoam block and cutting it. You can use very sharp knife (beware, not to cut yourself!!) using motions as knife was a saw. You can use hot wiring bow, going carefully over the drawn lines, or over prepared templates, made from hard paper, masonite, or other apropriate material. Now we should refine the shape, to give it proper shape (oval cross sections). We can use some cross section templates, to check our progress. I usually cut away the edges at approx 45°. Afterthat I cut again all edges. Now the canopy positive mold is comprised by about 9 surfaces. We use sandpaper or sanding block, to smooth the positive mold surface.
When satisfied with the shape, we must cover the surface with some kind of filler, that can be later easily sanded. If we intend to use this mold many times it is not a bad idea to strengten its outer surface. You can use glass laminate and filler if you are master in this technology.
My prefer method is more low-tech. I use white carpenter glue thinned with a water and small pieces of newspaper to cover the surface. I pour allmost milk-alike glue in a pan and troughly soak paper pieces in it. I apply about 3 layers of paper over the mold surface, and leave over night in very warm place so water from glue could evaporate. Well, somethimes take two days for evaporating the moisture from the paper skin.
Now I sand the surface a bit, and apply filler. I use a filler that is made for wood and can be sanded easily. After each layer I leave to harden and then sand. I repeat this process for about 3 times, or until get satisfied result. I use fine grade sandpaper.
We can use that positive mold already, but we can also paint it to get smoother surface, and find out possible areas, where more filler should be applied.
And now to the making of our canopy!
I use a 0,4mm thick thermoplastic foil. I clamp two sides between a pair of wooden sticks and use woodscrews to tight them together.
I insert a nail on each of four ends , cut their heads off, and bent it to a hook shape.
I heat the kitchen owen and insert the plastic in. I hook those bended nails into side rails of the owen, so plastic will be hanged nicely in the available space.
I look into the owen trough a windoow in the owen door. The plastic will soon starts to be soft. You will notice, that it shakes a bit under the air circulation inside the owen. The plastic will became soft and it will starts to streech under its own weight, which is visible by its lower side slowly sinking down. Plastic can also starts to look foggy. Dont worry, it will became clear later on the process by itself.
Now open the owen and grab both wooden ends (HOT!! Use safe kitchen gloves!!! Dont burn yourself!!) take it out from the owen and put over your canopy mold. Be careful and place it properly! Now push both wooden parts down. The plastic will strech and follow the mold shape. Dont ease on the down pressure.
Pulling down against the mold. (here I use a mold from pure styrofoam, and resulted canopy get inprint from foam structure. I recomend to use filler on the surface!)
This picture show making canopy on the mold that has prepared outer surface with filledr and paint. This will brings much better results! I recoment this way to do it!
Now a helper should cool the canopy surface with a wet piece of cloth. Now you can stop pulling down.
Carefully remove your plastic canopy from the mold.
If canopy looks well, cut it on the proper size and install it on the model.
Canopy frame in front, broken canopy in center, and newly finished canopy in rear. Trimmed with scissors.
New canopy on the model! It is allmost hard to believe, that this canopy was made using above described simple technology.
Some aditional info:
Once I coat the mold with a thin layer of grease, so the plastic can strech over the mold without unnecessarry friction. That way, the thicknes of finished product is more even. The result was very well.
Once, when pick up the plastic from owen, it fall down on the floor from my hands, as I was clumsy with gloves. When I finally pick it up from the floor and try to streech it over a mold it was already not hot enough. I was thinking, that I destroyed the plastic. But I return it into owen and repeat the process. I made a perfect canopy second time. So, dont be affraid if it will not goes at very first attempt. You can use the same plastic again, even if looks used...
And that is all you need to do!
Making the cockpit canopy-using boiling water (MS)[4/25/2009] Here I will describe, how to make smaller canopies for gliders and motorplanes.
It is very simple method, and depending of the material type used for the "plug-mold" , one can make just one canopy (foam plug), or many of them (wood plug).
I will describe in Part 1, how I made a canopy , then in Part 2, will show you how I made a simpliest mold from extruded styrofoam (DOW or similar)
In Part 3, I will tell you about some other variants of this technology.
MAKING A CANOPY FROM PET BOTTLE, USING BOILING WATER
According to size of canopy, we use a pet plastic bottle of apropriate size.
Cut the bottom of the bottle and allso the top away.
Now take your canopy positive plug (look at Part 2 on how to make it) and press fit into the bottle.
Of course, you should trim bottom of your plug to made tight fit. But not overdoo..the overthight fit can crush foam plug!
On the areas where foam and bottle are appart, pres some wedges to fill the gaps.
You must do that at "bottom" of the canopy plug.
Now, use fork to pierce it to the exposed foam at the bottom of the bottle. Fork will serve as a handle, at processs that follows.
Take large enough pot, and boil the water in it. Dont fill the water up to the edge of the pot! Leave some space, as water level will rise when we dip our mold in the water!
Be very carefuly, not to boil yourself with the water!
Dip your mold in the boiling water and turn it from side to side, so all plastic will recieve a heat from water.
After about 30 seconds, rise mold from the water and check, how the shrinking of plastic bottle goes. If needed, dip it again into the water, until you are satisfied with its look.
Usually it takes about 1-2 minutes to get desired result.
Often the shrinking of the bottle in the water is not sufficient at some of canopies.
Look at the front edge on photo bellow.
Obviously, there is needed more of shrinking!
It is not a problem! We can use hot air blower (Old paint remower, not a hair dryer!) and carefully heat the area, that cause problem. But you must be very careful doing that, as foam, can melt under the heat, and you will get distorted canopy!!
Now you use sharp knife and cut the usefull part away. It is not a bad idea to mark the canopy outline on the plug and not cut slightly outsuide, so we get enough material for trimming, when assembling canopy to the model.
Again, be carefull, not to cut yourself!
And "voila", our first canopy is allmost done!!!
You can make many of them, different sizes, colors....
And make your model proud
My design of electric glider Guppy, with homemade canopy, done as described above.
MAKING OF THE CANOPY MOLD PLUG
Take a well sized extruded styrofoam, and shape the canopy of your plane.
The piece should be large enough, as we need to make it overzized in front, rear and bottom. We need to get so large canopy, that can be easily trimmed down to proper dimention, when fitting it to the aeroplane.
I usually take those steps:
- I draw an upper canopy contour to the foam, extending it tangentially in the front and the rear edge for an inch. Then I cut foam using very sharp kitchen knife, doing motions as on sawing. This kind of cutting motions produce a clean cut and minimum ammount of foam debris.
- Now I draw allso a bottom view of the canopy...ussually planform of the cockpit area. I cut same way as previous...kitchen knife.
- As canopy is ussually oval in cross section, I cut away edges. Then again cut away edges, but just a slightly.
- Now I tok the sanding block and sand down the foam, until satisfied with the shape.
- I draw an outline of the finished canopy on the foam, so I will be able to cut away the canopy with some extra material for trimming later.
The presented proces can be used in many variations. Some of them are:
1. You can make more durable and acurate plug from wood.
2. If your plug is made from wood or other heat resistant material, you dont need to use boiling water. You can shrink the bottle over wooden plug just using a heat gun.
3. When making very small or thin canopy, you can make two at once! Just carve your plug such way, that you will cerate one canopy on each side.
4. When making small canopy using shrinking method, you can allso use clear or tinted shrinking tube (those one that we wrap around batteries packs), and just use hot gun to shrink it over a plug.
Lately I have a great succsess making canopies for my GUPPY 2 series of models using wooden plug and exposing plug&bottle to the heat of the kitchen gas burner. In order to apply heat evenly the plug and bottle should be rotated over a flame (not to close, not to far) and making wawing moves. It is much faster and easiet, than boiling water principe.
But be aware, that complicated shaped canopies can not be done with this process. But as far I use it, it is very usefull for allmost any glider and normal sport plane.
I hope, that this technology will allow you to make some perfect canopies for your future project, or replacment part in case of mishap.
And once again, be carefull, when use sharp tools, and hot media...
el 99,9 de los pilotos FPV no usan cabina de acetato.
POr que usarla en una maqueta? Si el realismo pasa por ver los intrumentos no el plastico del techo. Que es lo que suma en realismo un plastico muy dificil de contruir que encima mete reflejos que perjudican la imagen? Aerodinamica? tengo un video donde meto el Easy a 170-180 Km/H y ni se inmuta.
Un buen ejemplo de maqueta sin techo es el video del P47 thunderbolt que ha quedado de maravilla http://www.aeromodelisdelmovirtual.com/showthread.php?t=3615
Es una maqueta muy lograda al "aire libre" donde meten al modelo a mas de 140 Km/h con un control perfecto. Creo que no habria que perder tiempo con estos acetatos y aprovechar ese tiempo en hacer un buen panel de intrumentos. Es mi opionion.
Este Denis G siempre un grande
Gracias por colgar el video
El mono que tiene de piloto es un SUPERMAN que desarmo en alguna oportunidad.
Buenísimo el tutorial está muy completo.
Muy currau lo de la mano en la palanca... menudo trabajito, pero luego vale la pena!
La 2da parte